To
understand the Elyse philosophy, you'll need a crash course in viticulture
and winemaking. If you're ready to dive in, click on thumbnail number two.
Continue by clicking on the subsequent thumbnails..
Ray
says "winemaking is cooking without a flame." Our winemaking philosophy
at Elyse is similar to the approach of a
chef. Great chefs search for the best ingredients and then
carefully prepare them so the layers of flavors in the food all reach
the table. At Elyse, we're constanly searching for wonderful fruit to work
with. Besides the vineyard
at
the
winery,
we've been fortunate to find amazing fruit from vinyards stretching from
Carneros to Howell Mountain.
Location
is paramount, but a
vineyard needs more than location to grow high quality
fruit. Ray started his career in the vineyard, and his decades of experience
have taught him that good wines result from continuous work in
the vineyard
- planting the right clones for the vineyard site, pruning
to ensure lower yields and higher fruit concentration, canopy control
to bring the fruit to full and uniform ripeness, and thinning to maximize flavors.
As a fellow winemaker once said, "The best wines come from the vineyards
with the most footprints in them."
Picking
the grapes at the right time is crucial - the sugar and acid levels of the
fruit must be at the proper balance so that the finished wine achieves similar
balance in its fruit, tannins, and acidity.
Each
step taken at the winery has one major goal - to capture as much of the
fruit flavor as possible. As at most wineries, the first step in the
winemaking process at Elyse is to send the fruit through the stemmer/crusher.
This
device removes the berries from the vines and then crushes the berries.
At Elyse,
we have
modified the the standard stemmer/crusher. The first
section has been left intact and removes the stems from the fruit so that
they do not impart harsh tannins into the juice. We have, however, removed
the crusher roller from the second section of this device.
This
has two effects. First, it allows some whole berries to reach the fermenters,
which produces wines with more forward fruit flavors. Second, it ensures
that the grape seeds do not get crushed and release harsh
tannins into the juice. The grape juice and the must (grape pulp and grape
skins)
are then fermented in small half ton lots.
These
small open top fermentors maximize the must and juice contact, which
translates into more flavor and color extraction. The must floats on
top and produces the cap. To further assist the extraction
process,
the cap
is punched down several
times a day on each lot during the fermentation - an arm-straining
job. After the primary fermentation is completed, the new wine is left in
contact with the must, a technique called maceration, for further flavor
and color extraction. This technique also softens the tannins
The
next step in the winemaking process is to separate the wine from the
must. This
separation is done in a wine press. We use a bladder press,
which is a cylindrical device with a plastic liner that can be inflated
to lightly squeeze the must. We use this type of press
so that we can ensure that the grape seeds do not get crushed and release
harsh
tannins into the wine.
After
the wine is pressed, it is placed in French oak barrels for aging.
The first step in the aging process occurs as the wine undergoes malolactic
fermentation. This secondary fermentation converts sharper malic
acids into softer
lactic
acids. We conduct the malolactic fermentation in oak barrels to capture
softer, more complex flavors.
The
final part of the process occurs when when we select
which barrels go into our final blends in what proportion. At Elyse,
we've always run distinctly counter to the trend toward 100% varietal
wines. We believe that the art of winemaking is the subtleties of the
blend. For example,
in some vintages we've
blended a few percent of Syrah into our Cabernet to enhance the flavor
and cut the harsh edge that 100% Cabernet wines can have. In other
years our taste tests have indicated that a few percent of zinfandel
was a better combination.
There is no set recipe. Each year, we strive to make the best wine possible.
Philosophy
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